session four: lily’s chickens
by Elizabeth DeBarros
USED TO BE ONE KNEW from whence the evening meal came — the chicken coop or cattle stall via the slaughterhouse, with maybe some potatoes or beans from the garden thrown in. Bread making was part chore, part rhythm, after milling the wheat. A family’s sustenance was an occupation born of necessity harnessed by the knowledge of living close to the earth — something akin to breathing — stemming from a certain built-in dependency.
Today, we’re more apt to be found whirling a cart around the periphery of a big box store, debating over the vast selection of packaged foods and calling it an adventure — but not before we critique the sample of this or that as either too salty, too bland, or just plain off. If short on time, we might throw down a hefty chunk of change for take-out. Shame. Not only are we what we eat, but how we eat.
Thrice removed from the source.
In Lily’s Chicken’s, Kingsolver records how she and then 5-year-old daughter, Lily, taught each other a thing or two about love, food, and resourcefulness.
When it came to love, allowing her daughter to own a small poultry farm gave way to motherly sanctions against cooking “Mr. Doodle” or any other feathered creature dubbed with a proper name. After all, friends don’t eat friends. As for food, Lily discovered it to be the means of her own resourcefulness, learned to work all things for the common good: the daily chore of collecting eggs meant “FREE BREAKFAST” for the natives on the plantation. A burgeoning work ethic with a side order of kick. A kind of entrepreneurship that makes a mother proud.
Kingsolver’s generosity spills over by offering reasons why she grows her own food, crusades for new politics on agriculture both local and organic, lobbies for energy conservation, and stumps for the simple ideal of consuming less. Not bad for a list of survival skills considering the present dangers we face. Not only are natural disasters resulting in widespread blight and food shortages, but also does the perpetual threat of fertilizer and pesticide contamination and the ever-looming reality of GMO’s present an entirely different sort of consideration. Boiled down, fallout from manufacturer greed is the leftover slop we’re left to feed on — or not.
There is a better way. Choosing to live closer to the earth doesn’t necessarily mean maintaining a 40-acre field or even rototilling a 6 x 6 backyard garden plot. And it doesn’t mean to never again eat another Lay’s potato chip. But it will cost in ways that might take some getting used to, perhaps by simply looking at our food with a new pair of eyes and instituting smarter, healthier ways of doing things for reasons beyond selfish. Kingsolver provides thoughtful incentive for supporting the local farmer:
“Americans have a taste for food that’s been seeded, fertilized, harvested, processed, and packaged in grossly energy-expensive ways and then shipped, often refrigerated, for so many miles it might as well be green cheese from the moon. Even if you walk or bike to the store, if you come home with bananas from Ecuador, tomatoes from Holland, cheese from France, and artichokes from California, you have guzzled some serious gas.”
But all this is slowly changing, thank God. People are wising up. They’re tired of Frankenfood. They’re getting educated about what they’re swallowing, voting with their dollars and feet. There’s a buzz. CSA’s and local farmer’s markets are popping up everywhere. Public space is being transformed into urban community gardens. Mothers are milling their own flour. Fathers are building coops and sheds. Families are composting. Five different neighbors who live within a 5-mile radius of us are not corn-cob farmers wearing overalls, per se, but they have chickens. Breakfast is free at their house, too.
And Lily is one of this world’s natural resources.
“All of us sooner or later must learn to look our food in the face.”
A BIBLICAL LENS:
I’m no tree hugger, but I dearly love the gustatory satisfaction of biting into a buttered ear of sweet corn or slicing up a thick, juicy beefsteak tomato that sprouted from seed planted in the loamy dark of my own backyard. But that’s just one pleasure. Gardening is an enterprise of unquantifiable returns for the whole man, not only the senses.
Where to begin?
For starters, growing your own food is honest. It’s economical. Cuts out the middle man. And you know what you’re getting. No mystery meat or recall notices. It’s organic, like breastfeeding — nothing artificial and a perfect economy — as long as you’re willing to put in the time and labor, mostly the waiting kind. Plus, there’s something to be said for possessing a measure of self-sufficiency. And the seventeenth zucchini of the season forces neighborly generosity. Good for everybody all around.
But perhaps the most resourceful aspect of growing your own food comes from the genteel quality of learning to be dependent on the One who makes things grow. Most rewarding is coming to the table to celebrate the harvest with a heart of thanksgiving more than just once a year.
What it means Biblically to draw close to the Source:
He waters the mountains from his upper chambers;
the earth is satisfied by the fruit of his work.
He makes grass grow for the cattle,
and plants for man to cultivate—
bringing forth food from the earth:
wine that gladdens the heart of man,
oil to make his face shine,
and bread that sustains his heart.
-Psalm 104: 13-15
_________________________________
Next Thursday: Letter to a Daughter at Thirteen with Melissa Jackson
Becky said she wanted to see my comments on this chapter and, of course, now I know why. Much of this chapter is greatly expanded in Kingsolver’s book, “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle” which I read and enjoyed a few years ago. This topic is certainly now garnering much attention and its nice to see that Christians are starting to take it seriously. It’s no longer a leftist, granola movement. This past summer, Vision Forum put on their Food Conference with guest speakers Francis Foucachon and Joel Salatin, there is a website called True Food Solutions which is Christian-based and Renee DeGroot published a book called, “Health For Godly Generations” which is from a reformed perspective.
Some background on us: We are farmers – not because our parents were farmers (although my step-grandfather was) but because about 10 years ago we became quite disgusted by what our country calls food. There is much debate in Christian circles about the verse in the New Testament that refers to all food being lawful by God. What most folks don’t realize is what they are eating is NOT food. If you pick up a box or can in most of the middle sections of your grocery store, the first few ingredients might be foods you recognize (or perhaps not) but most of them will be unrecognizable – this is not what God intended for us to eat. God gave us whole, living foods to eat and enjoy. It takes time to grow, nurture, find and prepare these foods but most don’t want to be bothered in our “convenience culture”.
Is it any wonder that the disease and obesity rates are so extreme in this country? We feed our ruminant animals mass amounts of grains (they are meant to primarily eat grasses) and dead animals, put thousands of them together standing knee high in manure and expect a good outcome? Same with our chickens and pigs. We have so altered “wheat” that millions are suffering from autoimmune disorders, infertility, “female” tendencies in males, obesity, etc… – this wheat is a far cry from the ancient wheats God speaks about in the Bible.
Here is where I challenge all of you – when you read through the Old Testament you see that much of their culture was agricultural. We have lost most of that in our society. It’s the big conglomerates that are controlling most of our food sources (2-3 companies supply all of our nation’s grocery store and restaurant meat). We need more families returning to the land. But, we look down on farming as too hard and not for intelligent people. This mindset has to turn around. Young people must be encouraged to value farming as an occupation (see the book “Born Again Dirt” by Noah Saunders). For those who don’t farm- grow a garden, support a local farmer, buy raw milk, etc… We are called to take dominion and to care for our children. It’s important for us to carefully consider what enters their souls – why is it not equally important what we give them for their bodies?
Off my soap box now…:-)
So glad for your thoughts, Amy!
“It’s no longer a leftist, granola movement.”
I must agree. This is not about asceticism, trying to become “pure” by external means. What it is is an acknowledgement that, at least in America, we have become a nation satiated by what is not really food and it is slowly killing us. But because we do not die overnight, we tend to, unwittingly, remain cavalier.
But the results are in. As you say, “Is it any wonder that the disease and obesity rates are so extreme in this country?” Diabetes is at an all-time high, and that among our youngest ones. Decades of downing high-fructose corn syrup has come home to roost. Celiac disease is on the rise. Wheat is not evil, but when it’s been stripped of its nutritious hull and/or modified, I cannot help but see the Biblical law of sowing and reaping in operation. We cannot supply our animals second-rate or third-rate feed in the name of good economics and expect, as you say, “a good outcome.” The food chain works both ways.
We are not farmers. We don’t eat all organic. And no, we don’t own chickens! But I do believe in supporting local agriculture for reasons far beyond the welfare of our own household. I like the way Wendell Berry puts it:
“THE LOSS OF LOCAL CULTURES IS, IN PART, A PRACTICAL LOSS and an economic one. For one thing, such a culture contains, and conveys to succeeding generations, the history of the use of the place and the knowledge of how the place may be lived in and used. For another, the pattern of reminding implies affection for the place and respect for it, and so, finally, the local culture will carry the knowledge of how the place may be well and lovingly used, and moreover the implicit command to use it only well and lovingly. The only true and effective “operator’s manual for spaceship earth” is not a book that any human will ever write; it is hundreds of thousands of local cultures.”
(Read the rest here: http://sustainabletraditions.com/2009/12/the-work-of-local-culture-by-wendell-berry/ )
I’m no activist, but I can read the writing on the wall. For now, my greatest sphere of influence is simply in what I feed my family. I deeply care about them, spirit, soul, and body. We’ve been making changes one forkful at a time, unto the glory of God.
“So whether you eat or drink or whatever you do, do it all for the glory of God.” -1 Corinthians 10:31
-E
I love reading Wendell Berry and Joel Salatin – lots of wisdom there…:-)
I first heard of Berry through his poetry (A Timbered Choir is a favorite), but I’ve grown to deeply appreciate his plainspoken views pertaining to community, agriculture, and local economies. He really is the salt of the earth.
Joel Salatin is a name I’ve only come to learn of more recently. Will have to investigate further:)
-E
E, thanks for sharing your thoughts today. Thank you.
As I read this essay I kept thinking of Jesus’ words recorded in Mark, when he says that it is not what enters into our bodies through our mouth what defiles us. While I agree that organic food, and homegrown food tastes wonderfully, I am afraid that many are falling into the “religion” of growing their own food as Kingsolver does (she admits this on the essay).
I love this quote from Douglas Wilson on this issue:
“He (Jesus) points out that whatever comes from outside cannot defile a man (v. 18). Although the occasion for this teaching was the Jewish dietary law (for which there was biblical foundation), the principle He lays down applies to all foods everywhere. It applies to the food that Moses restricted, and it applies to the food that is not restricted by any biblical writer. It applies to clam chowder, and it applies to corn-fed beef. It applies to bacon, and it applies to organic yogurt. It is okay to eat anything. The reason given is this— no food can be eaten which makes its way to the heart (Mark 7 v. 19). If it doesn’t go to the heart, then it doesn’t go to the heart of the matter.”
Wilson said somewhere else that there are some that have become “food Pharisees,” and I agree. 15 years ago, I feared that cancer would knock on our doors if we didn’t start eating all organic food and became vegetarians. And that fear started to grow in me and I became a food Pharisee. But God…. But God has something different to say and I learned that fear and distrust was worse than bacon, butter, and non-organic eggs.
Becky – I agree with what Doug Wilson says, that it is ok to eat anything that is food, that in the New Testament God lifted the dietary restrictions placed on the Jews. That is why I have no issues eating pork and shellfish. Where I differ with him is in the fact that most of what Americans eat isn’t food. They’re chemical contrivances that are made to taste like food and make companies like Kraft rich. We need to eat food as God created it, organic or not…:-)
That is why I LOVE to eat at your home, my friend. The butter and the pork are always amazing there!
I understand what you are saying. Yes, I agree. I think.
I came up with a probably pathetic analogy, but here goes. When man sinned, God sanctioned clothing to cover man’s nakedness. Now, we all know there are many different kinds of clothing out there and we could say that because God told us to wear clothing that anything goes. But we know this is not true because we have to follow rules regarding modesty and gender differences. It’s the same with food – there may be lots of choices out there but we have to choose wisely based on how God created the food and wanted it to be eaten. Just as I might say that a mini skirt isn’t really clothing because it doesn’t cover nakedness, so I would say that a Twinkie isn’t food because it in no way nourishes the body and prepares us for our work in taking dominion. (A Twinkie never rots, by the way, neither does a McDonald’s hamburger – yuck!)
OK. Hands down. I understand (and agree) with the point you are making.
Becky,
I would be remiss if I didn’t address this aspect of your comment:
“I am afraid that many are falling into the “religion” of growing their own food as Kingsolver does (she admits this on the essay).”
I’m glad you touched on this. I did not address this in my post, as I wanted to pull out what I thought was best of “Lily’s Chickens,” but I agree with you that she was forthright on her position of growing her own food and sustainable living:
“This is not exactly a hobby. It’s more along the lines of religion, something we believe in the way families believe in patriotism and loving thy neighbor as thyself. If our food ethic seems an unusual orthodoxy to set alongside those other two, it probably shouldn’t. We consider them to be connected.” (Small Wonder, “Lily’s Chicken’s” pp.112-113).
My response to her statement is simply this: She’s being honest. Is she Biblically accurate? No. And if this is the full extent of her statement of faith, then no again. Realistically, I don’t expect her to have her food ethic in the proper place, right after believing in the Trinity:), as she’s not a Christian.
Regardless, she’s established her view based on a certain measure of faith. (And we know that even atheists who believe there is no God takes faith.) I cannot fault her for that. I think what’s perhaps in far more need of adjustment are Christians who base their personal positions (whether it be on diet, homeschooling, politics, exercise, etc.) on disputable matters over and above Christian love. Romans 14 is God’s blessed provision for allowing differences among His people! Sadly, many aren’t willing to let go of their idol to make room for their brother or sister who may not have been given the same measure of faith. This is, I think, a dire need in the Body of Christ.
Love you!
-E
Most people in North America don’t have the physical space to grow all of their own food. It used to be that even people in cities could keep a few chickens. I don’t know as if most municipal codes would allow that.
I have some pretty “soap box-ish” views on this, but I won’t bore you with them.
I didn’t have time to read this essay, but I want to because it was probably the impetus for Animal, Vegetable, Miracle (which I want to read). My family starting intentionally eating more real/whole foods a couple of years ago & we see the difference in our health. We enjoy eating whole foods more, too. We buy a few organic items. I get eggs from a friend who has chickens & am starting to buy pork & beef from a local farmer. I also have a local source for produce (what we didn’t grow). I love supporting those who use natural methods for raising their animals & produce. I do make monthly trips to Trader Joe’s & Whole Foods for some purchases, since my small town doesn’t offer much in the way of organic/non-GMO items. Still, the benefits have far outweighed any inconveniences. Having said that, we still hit the drive-thru and buy junk food on occasion. We’re just much more conscious of what choose to eat the majority of the time. I think we’re being better stewards of our bodies, while trying not to be Pharisees about our food.
That sounds like what we do in our home, Melissa.
Becky, I like that phrase “food pharisee”.
I’m all for eating healthy and we try to do our best but not everyone can afford to go whole hog organic.
Use common sense, eat wisely, enjoy God’s provision whatever it is (even if its bacon), and eat it for His glory.
Amen!
There’s an obscure passage in Ecclesiastes that I think applies:
“Do not be overrighteous,
neither be overwise—
why destroy yourself?
Do not be overwicked,
and do not be a fool—
why die before your time?”
-Ecclesiastes 7:16-17
Plainly speaking, food Pharisees are overrighteous. Granola-chomping liberals are overwise. Both excel in snobbery. Then there are those who are ignorant and those who are intelligent, and they too eat and drink accordingly.
But the Christian, above all the rest, has been given, inherent within the Word of God, instruction for all of life. And it’s clear that an honest, whole Bible theology does not promote or cater to a wreckless diet or lifestyle without consequence. That said, I strongly believe in enjoying all kinds of food, including meat, fish, bread, full-fat ice cream, wine, and the occasional handful of chocolate covered espresso beans. (I just wish they weren’t so hard to find:))
But what I find most interesting is how Kingsolver is benefiting from the blessings that come from living a life of moderation, self-control, and being productive by working with her own hands. No, she’s not a Christian. But common grace has found her in her garden, carrying seed to sow.
I, for one, am not above learning from an unbeliever.
-E
This:
“I, for one, am not above learning from an unbeliever.”
Over and over again, lest I become a Pharisee – not only a Food Pharisee, but a Pharisee altogether!
Good words, E.
Becky,
Well, I seriously doubt you would make a good Pharisee…you wouldn’t be able to live with yourself:)
Thank you for sharing your story about how you once made dietary decisions based upon fears of getting cancer. Your story proves His faithfulness to have led you out of that kind of bondage and to adjust your motivations to be based upon confidence and trust.
Ultimately, it’s our motivations that God discerns. He knows our frame!
Love,
-E
Amen.
Love you, sister!
I just want you to know I’m reading your posts and all the comments, this post especially. I almost wrote a response last week, as I am “into” food, real food. but I think you all have covered all I would want to say (and much more elegantly than I could say it). I especially like your comment Elizabeth: “I am not above learning from an unbeliever.” There is a lot of common grace out there from different communities.
Hi Martha,
I am so glad you’re reading along! Many years ago I was a “foodie” in the “Bon Apetit” sense, but more recently I’ve become a “foodie” in the “You are what you eat” sense. And I don’t want to end up looking and feeling like a GMO, a nitrate, or a pasta noodle!
God is good. I agree, common grace is abundant, and I believe it is thus to humble us.
-L
I agree with you too, Martha; let us not forget that common grace abounds in this world! Praise the Lord for that!
And cheers to all who love real yummy food!